Friday, February 08, 2008

It’s Saturday, Feb. 9th. It’s 8:00 in the morning. It’s quiet. Surprisingly so. Perhaps the activities are over. Someone in my position never quite knows. This may be the downside to being a foreigner and a nonChinese speaker in China or it may be part of the charm. That aside the last few days have been interesting.

We’ve been celebrating Spring Festival. I’ve learned to say “xin nian hao!” (Happy New Year) and toasted everyone and everything at lunches and dinners. We’ve made jiaozi/dumplings and eaten more than I imagined possible.

Like our Christmas, Spring Festival activities spread over several days with the central and most important days being Feb 6 and 7 this year. Those dates change each year as the Chinese year, now referred to by Owen College students as the “old way,” is based on the lunar cycle

On Wednesday we witnessed people cleaning. Laundry was done. Houses were swept, mopped and dusted. Looked like some windows and doors had been painted. Then the new couplet banners and door signs were hung at the doors. That's what our neighbor and his son are doing in this photo. They set off firecrackers as just before they drove off. I imagine they were headed to a hometown in the countryside where they were spending the festival with family.





Downtown was busy that morning with last minute shoppers. So many chickens were needed the vendors lined the street with their baskets. Round fruit, like apples, oranges, pomelos, dried persimmons and pears, were in much demand. There was also a sticky rice New Year’s cake. Kilos and kilos of candy were carted away. And firecrackers, fireworks, red lanterns and red envelopes appeared in many stands. People give children gifts of money in the red envelopes, but here someone decorated a bush with the envelopes.


Wednesday evening burning candles, burning incense and sometimes tables laden with bowls of rice, cups of tea, and a plate of duck were placed outside doors. These were gifts for the ancestors.

After dinner we wondered down to the Li River where we set off our own fireworks and also enjoyed others’ displays. It was amazing. People had everything from small sparklers to large color-changing, form-changing, “awe” inspiring fireworks. Then we walked through downtown and were surprised to find it so quiet. The streets were deserted. So about 10:30 I left the group and came on home where I turned on the TV to watch the nationally televised variety show which apparently most people were at home watching.

I admit I fell asleep. Most of you will not be surprise. But at 11:45 I was awakened. I have no pictures of what was happening. My camera does not take a good nighttime photo, and even if it did, I don’t think a picture would capture this event. Yes, the fireworks were stupendous. And more so when one stopped to think that they were set off by individuals, not civic or government groups. Individuals were in charge of this production of large colorful explosions in the sky. Added to the color show was the noise of the firecrackers. When I first stepped out of the apartment, a neighbor was lighting a long strand of firecrackers. I could hear other long strands firing behind me, to my left and to my right. As one strand died down others fired off at different homes. The air was filled with the noise, the smell, and the smoke. The sound reverberated off the houses and the karsts and me. Fireworks shook the sky above me; firecrackers shook the earth I stood on. This dramatic outpour of color and noise continued for nearly an hour. The wonder is that all across China in every village, town, and city the same din exploded at the same time. Perhaps you heard it?

By one o’clock everything was quiet.

Thursday morning we awoke to more firecrackers. It was hard to believe that any evil spirits remained after the work taken to chase them away the night before. But one can never be too sure.



I spent the day in town. Kelly and I ate a lunch called clay pot. It’s meat and vegetables of your choice served with rice in a clay pot. Very delicious. These two girls with their cotton candy joined us at our table.
After lunch we found a table on a corner along West Street where we camped for the rest of the day drinking osmanthus tea, visiting with many who stopped by and waiting for the lions. We thought we had missed them but still we persevered. Good thing. Before the day was over we saw them twice

They paraded through town stopping at each place of business where they danced, bowed and were given money in the red envelops. The money is payment for chasing the evil away from the businesses. Some store owners placed their red envelopes high above the door and the lion needed to work to reach it. Others just placed it in his mouth. There were three creatures at times, other times only two. They were accompanied by a drum and cymbals. It was very festive.






The days and streets since have been quieter. A few firecrackers and fireworks, but not many. I’m packing in preparation for a six-week long holiday in the States. I fly home on Monday. I'm glad I stayed to experience Spring Festival but it will be good to spend time with family and friends at home too.


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